Day 12: Cardeñuela Riopico to Tardajos via Burgos

Burgos Cathedral - Gothic style cathedral built between 1221 and 1567

Left our albergue just before sunrise. Walked through countryside for a couple of miles before hitting the outskirts of Burgos, but it took several more miles of city walking to reach the city center.

Arco de Santa Maria is one of 12 medieval gates leading into the city in the Middle Ages. Roman emperor Charles V rebuilt the arch in the 16th century. The arch leads into the square outside the massive Cathedral of Saint Mary.

Toured the cathedral with Janine from Germany and Anne Marie from Denmark. I’ve walked with Anne Marie since leaving Navarrete on Day 8, which has been wonderful. We met Janine in Castildelgado a few days ago and keep running into each other, which is delightful. They are both staying in Burgos an extra day, but hopefully I’ll see them again.

The cathedral is incredibly ornate. It doesn’t feel like a sacred space to me in the way that the simple little chapel next to last night’s albergue did, but it’s quite impressive.

Grand hallways

Surprisingly small sanctuary (unless maybe there’s a larger sanctuary in the part that’s under construction?)

Stained glass, of course, which doesn’t photograph well with my phone but was still lovely

And this guy (Saint Jerome), who made me laugh

Back on my own again, I stopped at a restaurant for tortilla con pollo with a yummy garlic cream sauce. Unlike Mexican tortillas, in Spain tortilla is an omelette-like dish made with eggs and potatoes and often other ingredients (in this case chicken). I’ve also been trying a variety of non alcoholic beers, which are quite popular here. My favorite is one by Estrella Galicia, but today’s Amstel was good, too.

From Burgos, walked another 6-7 miles to the La Fábrica albergue. The albergue is a renovated flour mill and really nice. Four beds to a room, and there are only two of us in the room. We have a private shower with REAL TOWELS. Talk about luxury. 😂

Tomorrow I truly start the Meseta, a 111-mile section of the Camino between Burgos and León characterized by large, flat plains. Lots of wind and exposure, not a lot of sights to see, but loads of time to ponder.