Day 22: Foncebadón to Ponferrada

The Cruz de Ferris (Iron Cross) is the highest point on the Camino Francés. Traditionally, pilgrims leave a stone at the cross, either a stone they’ve brought from home or one they’ve found on the Camino. Leaving the stone symbolizes leaving behind burdens or sins and starting a new life.

We hiked over the pass in a storm, with pouring rain and heavy wind for hours. The walk definitely felt like a pilgrimage today! And, as Brad pointed out, it was probably fitting for a storm to close an old life and leave old burdens and habits behind.

I walked today with Caroline, an amazing 80-year old devout Catholic from Canada. We met on the way into León a few days ago. For the record, that is NOT sunlight on our faces. It was dark and dismal, and the lamps were on.

Finally, as we approached El Acebo de San Miguel, the clouds began to part a bit, and we saw a rainbow.

To make life even better, we found a restaurant with a roaring fire.

Passed through a couple of charming villages.

And down some rocky trails

Molinaseca is lovely!

We even passed an American flag, which was random. And I made the mistake of crossing the road in the wrong place, which really ticked off a passing driver. He flipped me off, then proceeded to stop his car, get out and yell at me, threatening to call the police, while his friend filmed the confrontation on his phone. I just kept repeating “no entiendo” (I don’t understand) and “lo siento” (I’m sorry). It didn’t calm him down, but he finally drive off. First negative interaction I’ve had since I arrived in Europe.

Happy to arrive in Ponferrada and relax in my bright bedroom. Not that it’s as important to you as it is to me, but I’m on a bottom bunk today.

Dinner with folks from Australia, France, and Spain was delicious. This albergue is homey, with wonderful hosts.