Day 29: Melide to A Salceda

Estrella Galicia commissioned British artist David Speed to paint a series of murals depicting actual pilgrims on various routes, including seven murals on the Camino Francés. Today, I passed by the mural of Anton Pombo in Arzúa. This is one of so many examples of art on the Camino, including formal art by established artists, random art by various pilgrims, graffiti, and more.

For instance, I also passed this street art. The “ultreia” over the figure on the right means “beyond” or “farther.” I’ve seen it so often on the Camino but never knew what it meant. Much of the art along the way includes encouragement for pilgrims to keep going, to reach beyond.

And some art, like this sculpture in Arzúa, feels totally random, but nonetheless delightful.

Then there are moments like these. I heard singing as I walked and found this Italian pilgrim singing the Nessun Dorma aria from Puccini’s opera Turandot. It was magical, especially with the acoustics in the tunnel.

In addition to the art, the day delivered more lovely Galician scenery, beginning with pre-dawn creek crossings.

Morning mist eventually gave way to drier weather and finally even some sunshine, a welcome change from yesterday.

Rolling green hills stretch to the horizon.

In today’s food news…I had larpeira for breakfast. This Galician sweet bread is filled with pastry cream and flavored with a bit of anise.

That’s larpeira on the left. The other two are empanadas. I had a wonderful individual empanada a few weeks ago, but since then I’ve yet to find an empanada I like.

And for dinner? Delicious fried squid.

Arrived at my second to last albergue of my Camino mid afternoon. I have one more albergue in Santiago for the weekend, and then off to Madrid.

The picture does not do this particular experience justice. You have to imagine the stench of a dozen shoes still damp from yesterday’s rain and today’s wet feet. Envision your son’s football cleats near the end of the season. In like manner, all of my clothes stayed damp for the last two days. Thank goodness for laundry service.

Off to Santiago tomorrow!